ARTICLES

PERFECTING THE TOLT
By Hrodmar Bjarnason

    Riders experience different difficulties keeping their horses in a clean beat tolt. What can you do to get your horse in a good balanced, beated tolt? The general answer to such a question is, of course, for all individual riders in such a situation, to improve their knowledge and skill as a rider.To improve the beat of the horse in tolt, the rider must understand the movements of the horse's legs in tolt, as well as what is happening in the horse's body when he isn't going correctly in tolt. We have to know in what way the horses move their front legs, respective to their hind legs.

THREE DIFFERENT TYPES OF TOLT

    Usually, we talk about three types of tolt; a clean four-beated tolt; trot tolt, which is somewhere between trot and tolt, and; pace tolt, which is somewhere between tolt and pace (depending on how pacy the horse is in his tolt).In a clean-beated tolt, the horse has an even four-beated gait, in which the time difference is even between every leg's groundtouch. The movements of the legs are the same as in walk, with the following differences:

1. Every stage of the horse's movement is going faster;
2. Instead of having two or three legs on the ground at the same time, as at the walk, in tolt, the horse has only one or two feet on the ground at the same time.
3. The horse has to be more collected in tolt to be able to carry most of his weight on his hind legs. Then the horse is supposed to be able to tolt in a good way.

    In trot tolt, which is not unusual for four-gaited horses, the beat is uneven in such a way that the time difference between the lateral legs is longer compared to a clean-beated tolt and, at the same time, the time difference is shorter between the diagonal legs, i.e. the horse is coming closer to trot in his movement.The opposite is true for pace tolt, i.e. the time differences are shorter between the lateral legs (the horse is coming closer to the pace in his movement and longer between the diagonal legs, compared to a clean-beated tolt).To change an uneven beat into a clean-beated tolt, we have to know how the horse moves his front legs, in respect to his hind legs.

CORRECTING INTO A CLEAN TOLt

    Understanding the mechanics of a true tolt, vs. a trot tolt or a pace tolt is essential to correcting the gait.

    Trot Tolt: The most important thing to clean up the beat is to delay the movements of the horse's hind legs and try to keepthe legs on the ground for a longer time. At the same time, we try to let the horse leave the ground as fast as possible with the front legs and to return back to the ground fast, as well. By doing this, the time difference between the parallel legs startsto be shorter and, correspondingly, the time differences start to be longer between the diagonal legs.

    Pace Tolt: The opposite is true to clean up a pace tolt. There we have to delay the movements of the front legs from the ground, i.e., keeping their front legs on the ground as long as possible. At the same time, we have to help the horse to movetheir hind legs faster, i.e. the horse has to leave the ground as soon as possible, with their hind legs. while it starts to be shorter between the diagonal legs at the same time. To change an uneven beat into a clean-beated tolt, we have to know how the horse moves their front legs, in respect to their hind legs. There are certain differences in how the horse moves his legs and this difference determines to what degree we can change the horse's movements in front, in response to their hind legs. As can be seen on al old shoe from the front feet, they are always thinner in the toe part. This indicates that the horse breaks over the toe when the front leg is leaving the ground. The hind leg goes almost straight up, and thereby straight down to the ground as well, therefore, the shoes are evenly thin on the hind feet. this kind of movement makes the horse not as vulnerable to different weights on his hind legs, compared to his front legs.

THE METHODS USED TO AFFECT THE BEAT

    By increasing the length of the hoof in all directions, the hoof will be heavier. When the rider uses this method, it is important that all basic rules in shoeing are kept. That means a correctly made toe axis. Another effect from a bigger hoof is that a longer toe axis delays the movement further, which helps horses to find the right balance in tolt. Also a bigger (wider) hoof makes it easier for the horse to move and he starts to be more relaxed in his back.

    A well-known method is to put heavier shoes on his front legs, and let the shoe be as a natural extension of the hoof.Horse's movements are affected differently by increasing the weight. It depends on the strength of the horse, as well as their movements. A horse with rather big movements in tolt is more easily affected compared to a horse with small movements, so it more often needs a lighter weight in the shoes compared to a horse with smaller movements.A common method is to put boots on a horse's front legs. The weight of the boots differs from 80 grams to around 300 grams. Check how boots affect your horse, and what weight suits him best. If boots affect the beat positively in tolt, then it is often betterto put a heavier shoe on for about five to six weeks and use the boots less often. A horse can become sore from using boots for a long time. Using heavier shoes also gives the rider the opportunity to use boots together with them, if the horse is still pacy in tolt.

    After five or six weeks, ask the farrier to change back to the usual size of shoe, which is normally 8mm thick. A new 8 mm shoe is almost as heavy as an old 10 mm shoe. To help to keep the balance of the horse in tolt, the farrier should keep the hoof a little longer than usual. This means, instead of taking away the new growth of the hoof, from these last six weeks, the farrier may leave an extra 1 cm. This prevents the changes on the hoof from being too great which would affect the movement of the horse too much.

    The hooves of the hind legs are kept small and light. In some cases, shoes made of aluminum are used to make the hoof as light as possible.

Tolt Tolt: The following can be done:
    The hooves of the front legs should be small and light, which make it easier for the horse to break over the toe. In some cases, no shoes at all are used (if the ground allows that). Otherwise, shoes made of aluminum are used. An alternative method is to trim the hoof, so that the front part of the toe (about half of the height of the shoe) is rasped off. This makes it easier for the horse to break over his foot, and faster as well.
Keep the hind legs heavy. As was mentioned earlier, because of how the horse moves his hind legs, the differences in weight has to be huge, if it is supposed to affect his movements of the hind legs. This means that the hoof has to be bigger and the shoeshave to be at least 10 mm thick.

    As an extra help, have your farrier let the heel be a little lower than usual. This can delay the horse's movement of his hind legs, and affect the movement in such a way that he brings his hind legs further forward before he reaches the ground.Changing the horse's movement through shoeing always gives a very limited result if the rider doesn't use his/her aids and his/herbody in a proper way. The rider has to know and understand the coordination between these different aids in tolt as well as in other gaits.

Hrodmar Bjarnason, a native Icelander and well-know trainer and competitor, owns one of the largest horse trekking companies in Iceland.

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HORSES HAVE TEETH TOO!
By Dr. James G. Hood DDS, PS Doctor of Dental Surgery

    As a dentist I treat people with tooth problems daily. Routine maintenance and regular check-ups are the best way to insure good oral health in people. Icelandic Horses, likewise, can have tooth problems and routine maintenance and regular check-ups are the best insurance for good equine oral health.

    Frequently, I see people with a broken or abscessed tooth. These people can often not function at all in their job and frequently can’t even carry on normal conversation. Pain creates bizarre behaviors. How many of you have seen or experienced tooth pain? Yet, the oral health of Icelandic horses is most probably the least well treated overall area in equine health.We expect Icelandic horses with tooth problems to focus on the task at hand. Horses with sharp interfering cusps on their teethwe expect to ride without head tossing, rearing, resisting the bridle, tongue rolling or going on the bit. Why if the human species with a tooth problem can exhibit poor performance, do we expect the equine species to exhibit anything other than poor performance?

    The Icelandic horse evolved as a grazing animal and the best food source for horses is natural grass. Horses were designed for continuous mastication (grass, hay or stalls). As Icelandic horses became domesticated grass is not always available and hay has become necessary to keep horses. This is the second best method to good equine nutrition and grain is third.

    Wear on the teeth of Icelandic horses is affected by these changing diets of the horse, grass, hay and grain. A grazing animal with use and wear it’s front teeth more than a stalled hay and grain fed animal. Maintenance therefore will be different.Equine dentistry of Icelandic Horses encompasses all aspects of the oral health in horses. In the past Icelandic horses with bad teeth were eliminated by natural selection. Today, a well maintained horses’ dentition can extend the life of that horse for decades!

    How do you recognize dental problems in an Icelandic horse? This is a good question and I’ll answer it first with a statement. Riders should be feeders. Observe your equine regularly while eating. Problems with your Icelandic Horse will show up in the following ways:

1. Change in chewing habits
2. Loss of body condition
3. Undigested feed particles in manure
4. Foul odor from mouth or nostrils
5. Discharge from the mouth or nostrils
6. Swellings of the face, jaw or mouth tissue

    If you notice any of these points in your Icelandic Horse please contact an equine dentist for your horse immediately. You will be rewarded by having a happy and well-behaved Icelandic horse. Begin early with oral examinations. On humans a good rule of thumb is: Brush your teeth twice a day and see your dentist twice a year.

    With Icelandic horses the twice a year vet or equine dentist check-ups are a good idea through age 5 (when they have a full compliment of equine teeth). After age 5 once a year for most Icelandic horses is adequate.
The most common dental problems in Icelandic horses include:

1. Sharp enamel points
2. Retained caps (primary teeth are lost at the approximate age of 2½ - 4 ½ years of age)
3. Discomfort from wolf teeth (exposed and blind)
4. Missing or broken teeth (stallions get kicked)
5. Abnormal wear of occlusal surface
6. Infected teeth or gums
7. Misalignment due to congenital defect or injury

    Older Icelandic horses in colder climates often will colic due to cold water sensitivity on worn teeth. The cold sensitivity causes them to drink less, so be aware and warm water for your horses in the wintertime.

    In closing I’d like to reiterate teeth, human or equine, and their regular care and maintenance are very important to overall health. If something doesn’t feel right, it’s probably not right. Observe your horse frequently. They are a great breed and we need to take care of their teeth.

More information about Equine Dentistry in Icelandic Horses will be provided by:
Dr. James G. Hood DDS, PS a doctor of dental surgery.
He also continues to study equine dentistry- especially in Icelandic Horses.
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EMERGENCY CARE

Guidelines to Follow During Equine Emergencies

    If you own horses long enough, sooner or later you are likely to confront a medical emergency. There are several behavioral traits that make horses especially accident prone: one is their instinctive flight-or-fight response; another is their dominance hierarchy -- the need to establish the pecking order within a herd; and a third is their natural curiosity. Such behaviors account for many of the cuts, bruises, and abrasions that horses suffer. In fact, lacerations are probably the most common emergency that horse owners must contend with. There are probably the most common emergency that horse owners must contend with. There are other types of emergencies as well, such as colic, foaling difficulties, acute lameness, seizures, and illness. As a horse owner, you must know how to recognize serious problems and respond promptly, taking appropriate action while awaiting the arrival of your veterinarian.

Recognizing signs of Distress

    When a horse is cut or bleeding, it's obvious that there is a problem. But in cases of colic, illness, or a more subtle injury, it may not be as apparent. That's why it's important to know your horse's normal vital signs, including temperature, pulse and respiration (TPR), as well as its normal behavior patterns. You must be a good observer so that you readily recognize signs of ill health.

What's Normal?

    There will be variations in individual temperature, pulse and respiration values. Take several baseline measurements whenthe horse is healthy, rested, and relaxed. Write them down and keep them within easy reach, perhaps with your first aid kit, so you have them to compare to in case of an emergency.

Normal ranges for adult horses are:
- Pulse rate: 30-42 beats per minute.
- Respiratory rate: 12-20 breaths per minute.
- Rectal temperature: 99.5' to 101.5' F. If the horse's temperature exceeds 102.5' F., contact your veterinarian immediately.
- Temperatures of over 103' F indicate a serious disorder.
- Capillary refill time (time it takes for color to return to gum tissue adjacent to teeth after pressing and releasing with your thumb): 2 seconds.
Other observations you should note:
- Skin pliability is tested by pinching or folding a flap of neck skin and releasing. It should immediately snap back into place. Failure to do so is evidence of dehydration.
- Color of the mucous membranes of gums, nostrils, conjunctiva (inner eye tissue), and inner lips of vulva should be pink. Bright red, pale pink to white, or bluish-purple coloring may indicate problems.
- Color, consistency, and volume of feces and urine should be typical of that individual's usual excretions. Straining or failure to excrete should be noted.
- Signs of distress, anxiety or discomfort.
- Lethargy, depression or a horse that's "off-feed."
- Presence or absence of gut sounds.
- Evidence of lameness such as head-bobbing, reluctance to move, odd stance, pain, unwillingness to rise.
- Bleeding, swelling, evidence of pain.
- Seizures, paralysis, or "tying up" (form of muscle cramps that ranges in severity from mild stiffness to life threatening illness).

Action Plan

    No matter what emergency you may face in the future, mentally rehearse what steps you will take to avoid letting panic take control. Here are some guidelines to help you prepare: Keep your veterinarian's number by each phone, including how that practitioner can be reached after hours. If you have a speed dial system, key it in, but also keep the number posted. Consult with your regular veterinarian regarding back-up or referring veterinarian's number in case you cannot reach your regular veterinarian quickly enough. Know in advance the most direct route to an equine surgery center in case you need to transport the horse. Post the names and phone numbers of nearby friends and neighbors who can assist you in an emergency while you wait for the veterinarian.

    Prepare a first aid kit and store it in a clean, dry, readily accessible place. Make sure that family members and other barn users know where the kit is. Also keep a first aid kit in your horse trailer or towing vehicle, and a pared-down version to carry on the trail.

First Aid Kits
First aid kits can be simple or elaborate, but there are some essential items. Here is a short list to get yours started. (*Material that should be sterile.)
*Cotton roll
*Contact bandage
*Cling wrap
*Gauze pads, assorted sizes
*Gauze wrap
Adhesive wrap and adhesive tape
Leg wraps
Sharp scissors
Hemostats
Steel cup or container
Rectal thermometer with string and clip attached
Surgical scrub and antiseptic solution
Latex gloves
Flashlight and spare batteries
Permanent market pen
Pliers (to pull nails)
6" diameter PVC tubing cut in half the long way (like a gutter) into lengths of 1-1/2 to 2 feet (for emergency splinting)

Emergency wound care
    The sight of blood may unnerve you, but maintaining your presence of mind can save your horse's life. The initial steps you take to treat a wound can prevent further damage and speed healing. How you proceed will depend on your individual circumstances, and you must exercise good judgment. The following should be viewed as guidelines:

    Catch and calm the horse to prevent further injury. Move the horse to stall or other familiar surroundings if this is possiblewithout causing distress or further injury to the horse. Providing hay or grain can also be a good distraction.
    Get help before attempting to treat or evaluate a wound. It can be difficult and very dangerous to try to inspect or clean the wound without someone to hold the horse. You cannot help your horse if you are seriously injured yourself.
    Evaluate the location, depth, and severity of the wound. Call your veterinarian for a recommendation anytime you feel your horse is in need of emergency care. Here are some examples of situations where your veterinarian should be called:

There appears to be excessive bleeding.
The entire skin thickness has been penetrated.
The wound occurs near or over a joint.
Any structures underlying the skin are visible.
A puncture has occurred.
A severe wound has occurred in the lower leg at or below knee or hock level.
The wound is severely contaminated.

    Consult with your veterinarian regarding a recommendation before you attempt to clean the wound or remove debris or penetrating objects, as you may precipitate uncontrollable bleeding or do further damage to the wound. Large objects shouldbe stabilized to avoid damaging movement if possible. Don't put anything on the wound except a compress or cold water. Stop the bleeding by covering the wound with a sterile, absorbent pad (not cotton), applying firm, steady, even pressure to the wound.

    Do not medicate or tranquilize the horse unless specifically directed by your veterinarian. If the horse has suffered severe blood loss or shock, the administration or certain drugs can be life-threatening.
If the eye is injured, do not attempt to treat. Await your veterinarian.
    If a horse steps on a nail or other sharp object and it remains embedded in the hoof, first clean the hoof.    Consult with yourveterinarian regarding a recommendation before you remove the nail. If your veterinarian advises, carefully remove the nail to prevent the horse from stepping on it and driving it deeper into the hoof cavity. As you remove it, be sure to mark the exactpoint and depth of entry with tape and/or a marker so the veterinarian can assess the extent of damage. Apply antiseptic tothe wound, and wrap to prevent additional contamination.
    All horses being treated for lacerations or puncture wounds will require a tetanus booster.

Other Emergencies
    There are far too many types of emergencies from heat stroke to hyperkalemic periodic paralysis, bone fractures to snake bites, foaling difficulties to colic -- to adequately cover them all in this brochure. However, regardless of the situation, it's important to remember these points:

Keep the horse as calm as possible. Your own calm behavior will help achieve this.
Move the animal to a safe area where it is unlikely to be injured should it go down.
Get someone to help you, and delegate responsibilities, such as calling the veterinarian, retrieving the first aid kit, holding thehorse, etc.
Notify your veterinarian immediately. Be prepared to provide specific information about the horse's condition, as mentioned above, and other data that will help your practitioner assess the immediacy of the danger and instruct you in how to proceed.
Listen closely and follow your equine practitioner's instructions.
Do not administer drugs, especially tranquilizers or sedatives, unless specifically instructed to do so by the veterinarian.

Summary
    Many accidents can be prevented by taking the time to evaluate your horse's environment and removing potential hazards. Also, assess your management routines to make them safer. Mentally rehearse your emergency action plan. Preparation will help you stay calm in the event of a real emergency. Keep your veterinarian's phone number and your first aid kit handy. In an emergency, time is critical. Don't be concerned with overreacting or annoying your veterinarian. By acting quickly and promptly, you can minimize the consequences of an injury or illness. Your horse's health and well-being depend on it.